Liverpool legend John Barnes has launched Score Ethiopia, a charitable campaign aimed at providing football-based amenities into Ethiopia.
The 44-year-old former England winger is working on a humanitarian mission to improve football facilities in Africa.
"The campaign aims to help promote football in the poorest countries and build better facilities, as well as getting water to the communities and giving local people training and start-up loans to get better jobs."
Barnes travelled to Lalibela, a historic town in the north of Ethiopia to launch a fundraising campaign for a new football stadium, complete with goal posts, corner flags, kits, clean water facilities and a seating arena.
Lalibela is desperately poor with many people surviving on just £1 a week.
Currently, the town's children play football with balls made from rolled-up clothes and their makeshift pitches are dust fields.
Jamaican-born Barnes added: "I travelled to Lalibela to understand what football means to these children. I have been all over Africa and Ethiopia is my favourite country because the people are so friendly.
"We all associate it with famine but I want to show that there is so much more going on here.
"If we can help to raise £25k it will mean so much. You can't give kids a football pitch when they can't afford to eat but this project will help enrich their daily lives too.
"I have always known how powerful a weapon football can be to get people involved. Sadly not many modern footballers recognise that. Football gives people in countries like Ethiopia hope, enjoyment and respite from their daily lives.
"When you see kids with nothing kicking a football around, you recognise how incredible that is. It also helps to build communities because it is a team sport."
Monday, April 7, 2008
Tuesday, March 4, 2008
“Gondar’s Angel Eyes–A Pathway to Peace”
Walking the mile and a half or so from our hotel to the Debre Berhan Selassie Church, the town of Gondar, our last stop along Ethiopia’s historic route, was living out its typical Sunday afternoon routine. Families and friends talked in the street, men sat around drinking coffee at the cafes, and goats wandered about in the warm sun.
We were on our way to see the famous little church with its angelic ceiling. Soon enough we were paying the entrance fee and crossing the road to pass through the gate into the church yard. We quickly went up the entrance and removed our shoes. Stepping in, we looked up right away.
And there they were.
Heads of angels with beaming eyes covering the entire ceiling looked down upon us. Red and blue backgrounds with light brown faces filled with big, beautiful black onyx eyes and curly hair ran side to side, row after row from one end of the church to the other. My wife decided to lay down on the floor and look up. I followed her lead.
We couldn’t help but wonder if this is what heaven may feel like, a place where angels watch over you. Watching over us, the angels of Debre Berhan were the kind of comfort we all wished for when the bogey man was outside our windows at night when we were kids.
The walls, too, were covered in paintings. The crucifixion. The devil and hell. Many of the saints and scenes from the Bible stretched from corner to corner no bigger than 50 feet long and 20 feet wide.
Sitting on a bench along the one wall, we sat back and took it all on, observing the light coming in the top window. How wonderful it is to see other lands. Paintings several centuries old.
The following morning we toured the Royal Enclosure, sometimes referred to as Africa’s Camelot. Emperor Fasilades built the first castle inside the walls back in 1640, and emperors that followed him built subsequent smaller buildings, none coming close to the size and grandeur of Fasilades home. In the grand dining room and its adjacent dance hall, we easily imagined the big dinners and decadence that surely occured centuries ago. My wife stole a dance from me, our bodies a silhouette against the large opened door.
We walked down the stone stairway, imagining the romances that may have occurred after dinner, us falling in love with the idea of love.
The falling in love dream ended quickly when a group of aging Italian tourists came onto the main lawn. Too much distraction. Up until then, we had the entire Enclosure to ourselves. Fortunately, we were finishing up our tour.
That night at a local restaurant we marveled at the crowd of a hundred or so spectators that gathered in the main dining area to watch the big soccer game on the satellite TV. It was a game out of England, and the people paid for a seat to watch the game much the way you would for a movie. Hooting, hollering and clapping reminded me of home and going to a bar in a sports
town on a Sunday afternoon. Cheer on the team.
While leaving Gondar on the way to the airport, we talked to the taxi driver about the current political situation in the country. He was angry that the students were being killed and that men and boys were being rounded up by the thousands and sent off to prison for no reason.
Other than fear.
I thought of the fear in the politicians that leads them to do such things. And I thought of the fear in the men and boys on the backs of the trucks.
I wished that all of them, the accusers and the imprisoned, could lay down together on the floor and look up at those angel eyes on the ceiling of that little church in the mountains of their homeland. I thought that maybe, just maybe, they could see through those eyes a way forward that need not be violent and deadly.
I thought maybe all would see peace.
We were on our way to see the famous little church with its angelic ceiling. Soon enough we were paying the entrance fee and crossing the road to pass through the gate into the church yard. We quickly went up the entrance and removed our shoes. Stepping in, we looked up right away.
And there they were.
Heads of angels with beaming eyes covering the entire ceiling looked down upon us. Red and blue backgrounds with light brown faces filled with big, beautiful black onyx eyes and curly hair ran side to side, row after row from one end of the church to the other. My wife decided to lay down on the floor and look up. I followed her lead.
We couldn’t help but wonder if this is what heaven may feel like, a place where angels watch over you. Watching over us, the angels of Debre Berhan were the kind of comfort we all wished for when the bogey man was outside our windows at night when we were kids.
The walls, too, were covered in paintings. The crucifixion. The devil and hell. Many of the saints and scenes from the Bible stretched from corner to corner no bigger than 50 feet long and 20 feet wide.
Sitting on a bench along the one wall, we sat back and took it all on, observing the light coming in the top window. How wonderful it is to see other lands. Paintings several centuries old.
The following morning we toured the Royal Enclosure, sometimes referred to as Africa’s Camelot. Emperor Fasilades built the first castle inside the walls back in 1640, and emperors that followed him built subsequent smaller buildings, none coming close to the size and grandeur of Fasilades home. In the grand dining room and its adjacent dance hall, we easily imagined the big dinners and decadence that surely occured centuries ago. My wife stole a dance from me, our bodies a silhouette against the large opened door.
We walked down the stone stairway, imagining the romances that may have occurred after dinner, us falling in love with the idea of love.
The falling in love dream ended quickly when a group of aging Italian tourists came onto the main lawn. Too much distraction. Up until then, we had the entire Enclosure to ourselves. Fortunately, we were finishing up our tour.
That night at a local restaurant we marveled at the crowd of a hundred or so spectators that gathered in the main dining area to watch the big soccer game on the satellite TV. It was a game out of England, and the people paid for a seat to watch the game much the way you would for a movie. Hooting, hollering and clapping reminded me of home and going to a bar in a sports
town on a Sunday afternoon. Cheer on the team.
While leaving Gondar on the way to the airport, we talked to the taxi driver about the current political situation in the country. He was angry that the students were being killed and that men and boys were being rounded up by the thousands and sent off to prison for no reason.
Other than fear.
I thought of the fear in the politicians that leads them to do such things. And I thought of the fear in the men and boys on the backs of the trucks.
I wished that all of them, the accusers and the imprisoned, could lay down together on the floor and look up at those angel eyes on the ceiling of that little church in the mountains of their homeland. I thought that maybe, just maybe, they could see through those eyes a way forward that need not be violent and deadly.
I thought maybe all would see peace.
“Gondar’s Angel Eyes–A Pathway to Peace”
Walking the mile and a half or so from our hotel to the Debre Berhan
Selassie Church, the town of Gondar, our last stop along Ethiopia’s historic
route, was living out its typical Sunday afternoon routine. Families and
friends talked in the street, men sat around drinking coffee at the cafes,
and goats wandered about in the warm sun.
We were on our way to see the famous little church with its angelic ceiling.
Soon enough we were paying the entrance fee and crossing the road to pass
through the gate into the church yard. We quickly went up the entrance and
removed our shoes. Stepping in, we looked up right away.
And there they were.
Heads of angels with beaming eyes covering the entire ceiling looked down
upon us. Red and blue backgrounds with light brown faces filled with big,
beautiful black onyx eyes and curly hair ran side to side, row after row
from one end of the church to the other. My wife decided to lay down on the
floor and look up. I followed her lead.
We couldn’t help but wonder if this is what heaven may feel like, a place
where angels watch over you. Watching over us, the angels of Debre Berhan
were the kind of comfort we all wished for when the bogey man was outside
our windows at night when we were kids.
The walls, too, were covered in paintings. The crucifixion. The devil and
hell. Many of the saints and scenes from the Bible stretched from corner to
corner no bigger than 50 feet long and 20 feet wide.
Sitting on a bench along the one wall, we sat back and took it all on,
observing the light coming in the top window. How wonderful it is to see
other lands. Paintings several centuries old.
The following morning we toured the Royal Enclosure, sometimes referred to
as Africa’s Camelot. Emperor Fasilades built the first castle inside the
walls back in 1640, and emperors that followed him built subsequent smaller
buildings, none coming close to the size and grandeur of Fasilades home. In
the grand dining room and its adjacent dance hall, we easily imagined the
big dinners and decadence that surely occured centuries ago. My wife stole
a dance from me, our bodies a silhouette against the large opened door.
We walked down the stone stairway, imagining the romances that may have
occurred after dinner, us falling in love with the idea of love.
The falling in love dream ended quickly when a group of aging Italian
tourists came onto the main lawn. Too much distraction. Up until then, we
had the entire Enclosure to ourselves. Fortunately, we were finishing up
our tour.
That night at a local restaurant we marveled at the crowd of a hundred or so
spectators that gathered in the main dining area to watch the big soccer
game on the satellite TV. It was a game out of England, and the people paid
for a seat to watch the game much the way you would for a movie. Hooting,
hollering and clapping reminded me of home and going to a bar in a sports
town on a Sunday afternoon. Cheer on the team.
While leaving Gondar on the way to the airport, we talked to the taxi driver
about the current political situation in the country. He was angry that the
students were being killed and that men and boys were being rounded up by
the thousands and sent off to prison for no reason.
Other than fear.
I thought of the fear in the politicians that leads them to do such things.
And I thought of the fear in the men and boys on the backs of the trucks.
I wished that all of them, the accusers and the imprisoned, could lay down
together on the floor and look up at those angel eyes on the ceiling of that
little church in the mountains of their homeland. I thought that maybe,
just maybe, they could see through those eyes a way forward that need not be
violent and deadly.
I thought maybe all would see peace.
Selassie Church, the town of Gondar, our last stop along Ethiopia’s historic
route, was living out its typical Sunday afternoon routine. Families and
friends talked in the street, men sat around drinking coffee at the cafes,
and goats wandered about in the warm sun.
We were on our way to see the famous little church with its angelic ceiling.
Soon enough we were paying the entrance fee and crossing the road to pass
through the gate into the church yard. We quickly went up the entrance and
removed our shoes. Stepping in, we looked up right away.
And there they were.
Heads of angels with beaming eyes covering the entire ceiling looked down
upon us. Red and blue backgrounds with light brown faces filled with big,
beautiful black onyx eyes and curly hair ran side to side, row after row
from one end of the church to the other. My wife decided to lay down on the
floor and look up. I followed her lead.
We couldn’t help but wonder if this is what heaven may feel like, a place
where angels watch over you. Watching over us, the angels of Debre Berhan
were the kind of comfort we all wished for when the bogey man was outside
our windows at night when we were kids.
The walls, too, were covered in paintings. The crucifixion. The devil and
hell. Many of the saints and scenes from the Bible stretched from corner to
corner no bigger than 50 feet long and 20 feet wide.
Sitting on a bench along the one wall, we sat back and took it all on,
observing the light coming in the top window. How wonderful it is to see
other lands. Paintings several centuries old.
The following morning we toured the Royal Enclosure, sometimes referred to
as Africa’s Camelot. Emperor Fasilades built the first castle inside the
walls back in 1640, and emperors that followed him built subsequent smaller
buildings, none coming close to the size and grandeur of Fasilades home. In
the grand dining room and its adjacent dance hall, we easily imagined the
big dinners and decadence that surely occured centuries ago. My wife stole
a dance from me, our bodies a silhouette against the large opened door.
We walked down the stone stairway, imagining the romances that may have
occurred after dinner, us falling in love with the idea of love.
The falling in love dream ended quickly when a group of aging Italian
tourists came onto the main lawn. Too much distraction. Up until then, we
had the entire Enclosure to ourselves. Fortunately, we were finishing up
our tour.
That night at a local restaurant we marveled at the crowd of a hundred or so
spectators that gathered in the main dining area to watch the big soccer
game on the satellite TV. It was a game out of England, and the people paid
for a seat to watch the game much the way you would for a movie. Hooting,
hollering and clapping reminded me of home and going to a bar in a sports
town on a Sunday afternoon. Cheer on the team.
While leaving Gondar on the way to the airport, we talked to the taxi driver
about the current political situation in the country. He was angry that the
students were being killed and that men and boys were being rounded up by
the thousands and sent off to prison for no reason.
Other than fear.
I thought of the fear in the politicians that leads them to do such things.
And I thought of the fear in the men and boys on the backs of the trucks.
I wished that all of them, the accusers and the imprisoned, could lay down
together on the floor and look up at those angel eyes on the ceiling of that
little church in the mountains of their homeland. I thought that maybe,
just maybe, they could see through those eyes a way forward that need not be
violent and deadly.
I thought maybe all would see peace.
Monday, February 25, 2008
Gondar News
School Link focus
We are really pleased to have three new pairs of schools join our school linking scheme. In Gondar, Ethiopia, Edeget Feleg Elementary School has been linked with The Green Primary School in Tottenham, London. The Green has a small but very diverse student body and many of the students have ancestral links to the African continent.
Our Bahir Dar base in Ethiopia has been expanded with Queniborough Primary School, in Leicestershire, linking with Yekatit 23 Elementary School. History buffs will be able to tell you that Yekatit 23 takes its name from the date that the Ethiopian Army defeated the Italian invasion at Adwa in 1896.
Our final new link is between Broadwater Primary School in Tooting, London, and Bahir Dar Academy, which is an unusual school by Ethiopian standards because some of the teaching staff are recruited from other countries such as Canada and India. The Coordinator of this link in the UK spent 2 years in Ethiopia as a volunteer so she will be able to bring some first hand experience - and enthusiasm - to her new link.
Link Ethiopia is always looking for new opportunities to introduce students to other cultures - so if you, or someone you know, would like to consider linking a UK school, please get in contact and we will send you some more information.
Community project news
One of our longest running community initiatives is called the Clean Gondar Project, which is run in partnership with the Tara Centre in Gondar, Ethiopia. The scheme works with some of the poorest children in the town, to teach them about the value of work and to demonstrate to the rest of the community how little effort is needed to keep their local area clean.
Each Saturday morning, 30 children aged 8-15 do two hours' work picking up litter in some of the dirtiest parts of the town, and in return they receive breakfast, lunch, a shower and clothes. The scheme also enables the project staff to get to know the children better which in turn can sometimes help them in different ways, for example encouraging them to attend school during the week. Typically a total of about 120 disadvantaged boys and girls participate in this project each year.
To support the Clean Gondar project, visit our Gift Ethiopia website where a donation of £40 will cover all the costs of running the project for a week. Thank you!
http://www.giftethiopia.org/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=57
Our Gap Ethiopia scheme
Our next four gap volunteers have just left the UK to take up their teaching postings in Gondar and Azezzu. Cassey, Hannah, James and Will are equipped with a brand new set of teaching activity books and have just completed their training sessions at our Project Office with flying colours! They will be concerned particularly with helping their small groups of students to clarify their pronunciation of the English language, but will also assist with extending their vocabulary and improving their general use of correct English. It is a rare experience for any pupils in Ethiopia to be able to converse with native English speakers in small group situations over an extended period, and those lucky enough to be in the volunteer’s classes gain considerably from this contact.
Meanwhile, Link Ethiopia is seeking applicants for next year’s cohort of volunteers. If you want to find out more about this, see our very thorough website at http://www.linkethiopia.org/ and get in touch with rupert@linkethiopia.org.
We are really pleased to have three new pairs of schools join our school linking scheme. In Gondar, Ethiopia, Edeget Feleg Elementary School has been linked with The Green Primary School in Tottenham, London. The Green has a small but very diverse student body and many of the students have ancestral links to the African continent.
Our Bahir Dar base in Ethiopia has been expanded with Queniborough Primary School, in Leicestershire, linking with Yekatit 23 Elementary School. History buffs will be able to tell you that Yekatit 23 takes its name from the date that the Ethiopian Army defeated the Italian invasion at Adwa in 1896.
Our final new link is between Broadwater Primary School in Tooting, London, and Bahir Dar Academy, which is an unusual school by Ethiopian standards because some of the teaching staff are recruited from other countries such as Canada and India. The Coordinator of this link in the UK spent 2 years in Ethiopia as a volunteer so she will be able to bring some first hand experience - and enthusiasm - to her new link.
Link Ethiopia is always looking for new opportunities to introduce students to other cultures - so if you, or someone you know, would like to consider linking a UK school, please get in contact and we will send you some more information.
Community project news
One of our longest running community initiatives is called the Clean Gondar Project, which is run in partnership with the Tara Centre in Gondar, Ethiopia. The scheme works with some of the poorest children in the town, to teach them about the value of work and to demonstrate to the rest of the community how little effort is needed to keep their local area clean.
Each Saturday morning, 30 children aged 8-15 do two hours' work picking up litter in some of the dirtiest parts of the town, and in return they receive breakfast, lunch, a shower and clothes. The scheme also enables the project staff to get to know the children better which in turn can sometimes help them in different ways, for example encouraging them to attend school during the week. Typically a total of about 120 disadvantaged boys and girls participate in this project each year.
To support the Clean Gondar project, visit our Gift Ethiopia website where a donation of £40 will cover all the costs of running the project for a week. Thank you!
http://www.giftethiopia.org/product_info.php?cPath=27&products_id=57
Our Gap Ethiopia scheme
Our next four gap volunteers have just left the UK to take up their teaching postings in Gondar and Azezzu. Cassey, Hannah, James and Will are equipped with a brand new set of teaching activity books and have just completed their training sessions at our Project Office with flying colours! They will be concerned particularly with helping their small groups of students to clarify their pronunciation of the English language, but will also assist with extending their vocabulary and improving their general use of correct English. It is a rare experience for any pupils in Ethiopia to be able to converse with native English speakers in small group situations over an extended period, and those lucky enough to be in the volunteer’s classes gain considerably from this contact.
Meanwhile, Link Ethiopia is seeking applicants for next year’s cohort of volunteers. If you want to find out more about this, see our very thorough website at http://www.linkethiopia.org/ and get in touch with rupert@linkethiopia.org.
Friday, February 15, 2008
Gondar: Strange Lord of the Rings allegory
We're beginning to wonder if we've ended up in some sort of strange Lord of the Rings allegory. Our first stop in Ethiopia is the ancient capital of Gondar. Later on we were scheduled to drive through a village called Shire. It's a shame that the Semien Mountains aren't called the Misty Mountains... Okay, I think the relation seems to stop there but it gave the geeks in us (...okay me) a bit of entertainment for a while.
We immediately took a liking to this country. The food is excellent! They have teriffic pizza (Italian influence), tasty coffee (especially when instant Nescafe has been typical for the last 3 months), and cheap beer (about $0.75 per bottle). The local food is also very good - especially the food served on fasting day (ie: no meat allowed).
Here we visited a church shaped like Noah's Arc, the King's Bath, and the Royal Enclosure which dates back to the 17th century.
More
We immediately took a liking to this country. The food is excellent! They have teriffic pizza (Italian influence), tasty coffee (especially when instant Nescafe has been typical for the last 3 months), and cheap beer (about $0.75 per bottle). The local food is also very good - especially the food served on fasting day (ie: no meat allowed).
Here we visited a church shaped like Noah's Arc, the King's Bath, and the Royal Enclosure which dates back to the 17th century.
More
Wednesday, February 6, 2008
All about Gondar
Gondar is probably the most immediately impressive of Ethiopia's major ex-capitals, but it is perhaps less enduringly memorable than either Axum or Lalibela. Gondar is one of Ethiopia's largest cities, yet it has retained its friendly character and is generally considered to be one of the most welcoming towns on the 'tourist route'. Much of the modern town centre dates from the Italian occupation of 1936-41, although in the last few years a number of bars and hotels have been repainted and refurbished and a number of new buildings are being constructed as you read this.
History
Gondar was founded in 1635 by Emperor Fasiledes (as in the name of our link school). For several centuries Ethiopia had been ruled from a succession of temporary capitals and Fasiledes recognised that a permanent capital might help provide greater internal stability.
By the time of Fasiledes' death in 1667 Gondar was the largest and most important city in the empire. It retained its position as the capital of Ethiopia for 250 years, though this status was largely nominal from the late 18th century onwards.
How to get there
Ethiopian Airlines flies between Gondar and Addis Ababa, Bahar Dar, Axum and Lalibela. The airport is around 20 km out of town so you'll have to get on to a taxi or a minibus.
The most straightforward way to get from Bahar Dar to Gondar is by bus, which will take around six hours. You can also catch a bus from Addis, which will take around two days and you will stop overnight at Debre Markos or one of the smaller towns on the way.
From the north, the bus from Axum needs a day and a half as it must ascend the dramatic connecting road up onto the plateau, passing very close to the Simien Mountains. You will need to get a bus from Axum to Shire, and then from Shire to Gondar. Road transport from Lalibela is possible but difficult, with no obvious direct service.
Where to stay
The Goha Hotel, part of the government Ghion chain, is a couple of kilometres from the town centre on top of a hill. The great view over the town and above-average service make this one of the best hotels in northern Ethiopia. Rooms cost US$ 36/48 single/double.
Those on a budget could try the Fogera Hotel, which has a period Italian feel to it. The semi-detached villas with twin beds cost Birr 135. The very comfortable Circle Hotel is Birr 80 for a single room with large double bed and Birr 100 for a twin.
There is the usual cluster of dollar-a-night dumps around the bus station. The Ethiopia Hotel, in the central Piassa, is where many backpackers stay, and probably the pick of the places in this range. Rooms cost Birr 15/25 single/twin.
Where to eat
The Goha is a nice place to head to watch the sunset before the best food in town.
For those who are slightly more price conscious, the good restaurant at the Fogera Hotel has main courses for Birr 10-12. The Circle Hotel, with a good rooftop bar, does great roast lamb. For traditional Ethiopian food try the Mintu Wuhab Restaurant.
Delicious Pastry serves cakes, biscuits, coffee and fruit juices, and is highly rated by all, and the Teleclub beneath the telecommunications centre is another popular breakfast spot. Gondar is well known for its nightlife, with the greatest density of bars clustered in the backstreets behind the NTO.
What to see and do
The Royal Enclosure lies at the heart of Gondar and gives the city much of its character. Containing five castles, and several smaller buildings, it is a fascinating place to explore. It may be worth getting a guide as they are very knowledgeable. The most impressive castle, built by Fasiledes around 1640, shows a unique combination of Portuguese, Axumite and even Indian influences.
About 2km out of town lies the large sunken Fasiledes bathing pool. The pool is still used for the Timkat Festival which takes place every January. Tickets cannot be bought at the pool itself but entrance is included in the price for visiting the Royal Enclosure (providing you visit both on the same day).
The church of Debre Birhan Selassie, a half-hour walk out of town, is regarded by some experts to contain the finest art of its period anywhere in Ethiopia. The church is most famous for its roof which is decorated with a painting of 80 cherubic faces. Apparently Emperor Yohannis I intended to move the Ark of the Covenant here from Axum. Photography is permitted but useless without a flash or tripod.
A short taxi ride out of Gondar is the falasha (see the Lake Tana section) village of Woleka which was vacated by all but one of its falasha occupants during the last famine. One falasha woman remains but the village continues to make traditional pottery, and there's an interesting temple. Realistically this is the only place in Ethiopia where you can check out something of the falasha tradition.
Where to go from there
You can fly out from Gondar to Addis Ababa, Bahar Dar, Axum or Lalibela.
You can catch a bus to Debark, which is the base for exploring the Simien Mountains. The journey will take roughly four hours.
Slightly closer to Gondar is Gorgora, on the northern shore of Lake Tana, which can also easily be reached by bus. Gorgora is dominated by the leafy Marine Authority compound, which birdwatchers will find rewarding to explore. Also visit the Debre Sina Maryam Church
History
Gondar was founded in 1635 by Emperor Fasiledes (as in the name of our link school). For several centuries Ethiopia had been ruled from a succession of temporary capitals and Fasiledes recognised that a permanent capital might help provide greater internal stability.
By the time of Fasiledes' death in 1667 Gondar was the largest and most important city in the empire. It retained its position as the capital of Ethiopia for 250 years, though this status was largely nominal from the late 18th century onwards.
How to get there
Ethiopian Airlines flies between Gondar and Addis Ababa, Bahar Dar, Axum and Lalibela. The airport is around 20 km out of town so you'll have to get on to a taxi or a minibus.
The most straightforward way to get from Bahar Dar to Gondar is by bus, which will take around six hours. You can also catch a bus from Addis, which will take around two days and you will stop overnight at Debre Markos or one of the smaller towns on the way.
From the north, the bus from Axum needs a day and a half as it must ascend the dramatic connecting road up onto the plateau, passing very close to the Simien Mountains. You will need to get a bus from Axum to Shire, and then from Shire to Gondar. Road transport from Lalibela is possible but difficult, with no obvious direct service.
Where to stay
The Goha Hotel, part of the government Ghion chain, is a couple of kilometres from the town centre on top of a hill. The great view over the town and above-average service make this one of the best hotels in northern Ethiopia. Rooms cost US$ 36/48 single/double.
Those on a budget could try the Fogera Hotel, which has a period Italian feel to it. The semi-detached villas with twin beds cost Birr 135. The very comfortable Circle Hotel is Birr 80 for a single room with large double bed and Birr 100 for a twin.
There is the usual cluster of dollar-a-night dumps around the bus station. The Ethiopia Hotel, in the central Piassa, is where many backpackers stay, and probably the pick of the places in this range. Rooms cost Birr 15/25 single/twin.
Where to eat
The Goha is a nice place to head to watch the sunset before the best food in town.
For those who are slightly more price conscious, the good restaurant at the Fogera Hotel has main courses for Birr 10-12. The Circle Hotel, with a good rooftop bar, does great roast lamb. For traditional Ethiopian food try the Mintu Wuhab Restaurant.
Delicious Pastry serves cakes, biscuits, coffee and fruit juices, and is highly rated by all, and the Teleclub beneath the telecommunications centre is another popular breakfast spot. Gondar is well known for its nightlife, with the greatest density of bars clustered in the backstreets behind the NTO.
What to see and do
The Royal Enclosure lies at the heart of Gondar and gives the city much of its character. Containing five castles, and several smaller buildings, it is a fascinating place to explore. It may be worth getting a guide as they are very knowledgeable. The most impressive castle, built by Fasiledes around 1640, shows a unique combination of Portuguese, Axumite and even Indian influences.
About 2km out of town lies the large sunken Fasiledes bathing pool. The pool is still used for the Timkat Festival which takes place every January. Tickets cannot be bought at the pool itself but entrance is included in the price for visiting the Royal Enclosure (providing you visit both on the same day).
The church of Debre Birhan Selassie, a half-hour walk out of town, is regarded by some experts to contain the finest art of its period anywhere in Ethiopia. The church is most famous for its roof which is decorated with a painting of 80 cherubic faces. Apparently Emperor Yohannis I intended to move the Ark of the Covenant here from Axum. Photography is permitted but useless without a flash or tripod.
A short taxi ride out of Gondar is the falasha (see the Lake Tana section) village of Woleka which was vacated by all but one of its falasha occupants during the last famine. One falasha woman remains but the village continues to make traditional pottery, and there's an interesting temple. Realistically this is the only place in Ethiopia where you can check out something of the falasha tradition.
Where to go from there
You can fly out from Gondar to Addis Ababa, Bahar Dar, Axum or Lalibela.
You can catch a bus to Debark, which is the base for exploring the Simien Mountains. The journey will take roughly four hours.
Slightly closer to Gondar is Gorgora, on the northern shore of Lake Tana, which can also easily be reached by bus. Gorgora is dominated by the leafy Marine Authority compound, which birdwatchers will find rewarding to explore. Also visit the Debre Sina Maryam Church
GondarLink: Gondar News
Gondar is an ever-changing and vibrant place and on this page we try to keep you up to date with the various developments that are occurring in all parts of the town.
For those who used to live in Gondar but are now spread out in different countries all around the world, the centre of Gondar would today come as something of a surprise. The most notable new landmark is probably the Circle Hotel which, as its name suggests, a round tower of a hotel built just below the Piassa on the site where the garis (horses and carts) used to congregate. Its first-floor bar and restaurant are very comfortable indeed and are complete with satellite large-screen televisions. These provide a popular attraction for many Gondarés.
On the top floor, overlooking the town, is another comfortable bar that is a major focus for sports fans on days when the big football matches are screened.
The roads in the centre of Gondar are now in much better condition, with new tarmac stretching all the way down the hill to the airport and also along towards the Arade (market area) and in the direction of the Gohar Hotel.
Many new bars and restaurants have sprung up in the town in the last few years, with a particularly colourful and excellent touristic restaurant called Abeshe Kitfo on the main road from the Piassa just before the castles. This has excellent and delicious food, very popular with farengis and local residents alike.
Much new building is taking place in Gondar. Here is a photo of new developments going on behind the Piassa, almost next door to the Circle Hotel shown above.
We shall continue to update this page with interesting Gondar news. If you can help us with its content, that would be excellent, and we shall ask each pair of our GondarGap volunteers to prepare a report on their return.
For those who used to live in Gondar but are now spread out in different countries all around the world, the centre of Gondar would today come as something of a surprise. The most notable new landmark is probably the Circle Hotel which, as its name suggests, a round tower of a hotel built just below the Piassa on the site where the garis (horses and carts) used to congregate. Its first-floor bar and restaurant are very comfortable indeed and are complete with satellite large-screen televisions. These provide a popular attraction for many Gondarés.
On the top floor, overlooking the town, is another comfortable bar that is a major focus for sports fans on days when the big football matches are screened.
The roads in the centre of Gondar are now in much better condition, with new tarmac stretching all the way down the hill to the airport and also along towards the Arade (market area) and in the direction of the Gohar Hotel.
Many new bars and restaurants have sprung up in the town in the last few years, with a particularly colourful and excellent touristic restaurant called Abeshe Kitfo on the main road from the Piassa just before the castles. This has excellent and delicious food, very popular with farengis and local residents alike.
Much new building is taking place in Gondar. Here is a photo of new developments going on behind the Piassa, almost next door to the Circle Hotel shown above.
We shall continue to update this page with interesting Gondar news. If you can help us with its content, that would be excellent, and we shall ask each pair of our GondarGap volunteers to prepare a report on their return.
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